A short man should make sure he’s still going to be noticed and appreciated visually in a group of larger men.
SHIRTS
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Slim or fitted through the chest
This helps to narrow the torso. Even if you are an athletic built gentleman, you want to make sure that the shirt that you are wearing narrows your chest for the cleanest fit.
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High armholes
Higher arm holes allow for a slimmer fit with more movement. Again the slimmer fit leans the body out to our eyes.
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Tuck in the shirt
Tucked in shirt shows the waist and helps with elongating. Tucking in a shirt also allows the shirt to fit more snug on the body which lengthens it as well. If a shirt is un-tucked it should not be lower than 2 inches past the waist.
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Sleeve Length
Generally, sleeve lengths should stick out 1/2 in. to 3/4 in. from your blazer or suit jacket. Keep the sleeve length to 1/4 in. as a shorter gentleman, so it doesn’t elongate the arms.
SUITS AND BLAZERS
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Color
A more eye-catching style with lots of deep or bright colors and some unusual (but not horizontal) detailing.
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Lapel
Lapels that are narrow keep the shoulders from looking wide. A wider looking shoulder does nothing for adding “height” to a not so tall guy. Also, notch lapels instead of peak lapels will slim the chest and shoulders too which gives the appearance of length.
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Shorter jackets
Take note that shorter jackets for men 5’8” should not suffer in the fit across the shoulders and arm. Jackets usually cover the butt but a shorter jacket will expose the leg more giving the illusion of height.
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Slim sleeves
Arms hug the body and act as sight lines up and down a man’s physique. Slimmer sleeves add length to the arms making them appear lean as opposed to short a portly. The leaner and longer the arms appear, the leaner and longer you body will appear.
FIND YOUR PERFECT FIT
We invite you to discover a new world of bespoke, where clients have the opportunity to design every detail of their garment. Select each element, from the fabric to the color of the stitching on your buttons, with a drink in hand – the way it was meant to be.
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TROUSERS
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Avoid Cuffs
2-inch cuff cuts into the length of your leg and makes it look shorter. The goal is is to have one continuous and unbroken body line along the leg.
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No pleated pants
Pleats give the illusion of wider hips. Wide and tall generally don’t coexist, but lean and long do. The goal is to portray this look.
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Little to no break in the pants
The break in the pants is referring to the amount of fabric that is bunched up over the shoe. It’s better for shorter guys if the break is minimal. A quarter break (fabric covers 1/4 of an inch of the shoe) is acceptable but no break (there is no bunching at the bail of the pant leg) is best. Both techniques elongate the legs by not giving the appearance of a stump atop the shoe.
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Medium or High Drops
The proper crotch drop in your pants is a critical component to style and fit for men who lack substantial height. If the drop is too low it will shorten the legs even more. Avoid low drops at all costs.
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Taper
To the extent possible, pants should be slim through the leg and narrow at the ankle. Avoid adding unnecessary visual weight to your feet.
COMPLETE THE LOOK
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Shoes
Shoes should be kept uncluttered, just plain leather, and it’s best to avoid obvious height-adding like chunky heels.
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Ties
Bright and narrow ties help catch the viewer’s eye and then guide it upward.
FINAL SUGGESTIONS FOR SHORT MEN
If you only buy one suit, make it a dark pinstripe suit. Vertical thin stripes and dark tones will give an elongated appearance. A jacket with one or two buttons, peak lapels, and double vents will also help you appear taller.