Buying Your First Suit: The Alton Lane Guide (Part 1)

What is it about a man’s first suit that makes him feel like he’s arrived—that he’s finally about to make his mark?

It’s partly psychological. Studies have shown that suit wearers experience feelings of power. In turn, others perceive power in the suit wearer. Given this effect, it’s important that your first suit—and any suit you buy—looks sharp and fits perfectly.

When you’re ready to invest the time, money, and energy that buying your first suit requires, you may suddenly appreciate the need to be prepared to dress appropriately at all times, even though you may have historically attended mildly formal functions in your designer polo shirts and khakis.

As you begin to field invitations to the various prescribed events that come with approaching (or settling into) adulthood, you’ll need a proper suit in your closet.

This inaugural purchase in the men’s suiting world will lay the foundation for your wardrobe-building future as you make informed decisions about how you want to look and feel—and how you wish to present yourself at work and play.

First, decide whether to purchase off-the-rack, made-to-measure, or custom/bespoke. Then choose the right fabric and fit for your unique needs, budget, and body type.

If that sounds intimidating, we’re here to help.

At Alton Lane, we are committed to exceptional fit, quality, and value, so we’ve designed this guide to educate you.

In part 1 of Alton Lane’s guide to buying your first suit, we’ll explore the three different classifications of suits that vary, namely, in how they are customized, priced, and delivered. In Part 2, we’ll walk through the diverse detailing, fit, and fabric options available to you.

OFF-THE-RACK vs. MADE-TO-MEASURE vs. BESPOKE

Known for being the most affordable, off-the-rack suits are produced with many different end customers in mind. Once you find yourself face-to-face with the well-dressed salesman that promises to find your perfect suit, you’d better be armed with your measurements if you want to stand a chance of walking out with a proper fit.

Traditionally, men’s suits are known for their canvassed style, meaning a layer of horsehair lining exists underneath the fabric. This prevents any indication of slumping as it capably molds to the body’s shape. Alternatively, many ready-to-wear garments are fused. This means the manufacturer added a layer of degradable glue instead of natural fiber.

Fused suits are more susceptible to disengagement that causes an undesirable effect known as “bubbling” which could result in a less-than-natural fit. A pinch-test will help detect the fabric’s thickness quotient: a burlier thickness indicates a canvassed construction, while a less thick feel indicates the fused effect.

When it comes to fit, it’s important to acknowledge that RTW will never be custom. Even if you are lucky enough to find a suit that fits you well, your measurements tend to change with the seasons. It’s imperative that you enlist the expertise of a tailor that can alter your suit to your liking, either before it is worn for the first time, or on an ongoing basis to account for your evolving needs.

If you partner with the right tailoring professional, it is likely you will never regret investing in the additional cost of alterations. However, the pricing for jacket and trouser services depends on the level of difficulty and the quality of the services that your chosen shop provide.

Generally speaking, you can expect to pay between $50 and $100 for some of the most basic adjustments like getting your sleeves shortened or lengthened, or your trousers let out or taken in. Alterations like reducing the shoulder width or removing the sleeves to modify the chest require skilled hand work and will likely cost you more than $100.

In short, ready-to-wear garments help you save some time and energy when buying your first suit. You may, however, end up spending more to get the right fit.

Made-to-measure (MTM) suits are personalized around your unique measurements, style inclinations, and fabric choices. This option is similar to ready-to-wear in that your garment is manufactured instead of hand-sewn. That said, the benefits of made-to-wear include a built-in altered fit because in the end, the chest, waist, sleeve length, trouser length, and trouser waist are all yours.

Take some time to learn about the personalization options available to you, as well as what it takes—and how much it costs—to create a suit that’s made for you and only you.

While it’s relatively affordable compared to bespoke, MTM suits typically carry a 15% markup over off-the-rack options.

The made-to-measure process actually allows your exact measurements to inform the tailored customization of a single pre-made pattern so that not only are the cut and fit all yours, the fabric and detailing options are hand-selected by you. With the variety of fabric choices that include polyester, cotton, wool, and tweed, among others, you’ll want to consider your desired price point, comfort level, and material density before you make up your mind.

Next to fabric decisions, details can be the most thrilling part of your made-to-measure experience. Selection of vents, linings, pockets, and more (discussed in Part 2) will help build your made-to-measure suit and create the real impact of your first suit.

This accessible method of customization takes a little less time to manufacture than in crafting your custom/bespoke suits and requires less attendance at fittings. If your first suit is made-to-measure, you can be sure that you’re not only adding a quality garment to your wardrobe, but that you’ve learned a little bit about custom menswear along the way. It may very well inspire you to invest a little more time, energy, and money along the bespoke path to your perfect suit.

The term bespoke has its origins in 18th century England, referring simply to custom-made clothing. An adjectival form of the verb “bespeak,” this word has evolved to refer to perfectly customized suits that are made from an individually-cut pattern, due in part to the formal pre-arrangements required to create such unique apparel.

The bespoke path starts with measurements. Experienced tailors take these by hand, and some use 3D body scans.

Your measurements are used alongside your fit preferences to create a unique suiting pattern. Your initial pattern acts as a foundation for your fit.

During the first consultation, your provider will walk you through fabric and detail options, as well. You’ll choose the materials for your suit, linings, lapels, and a variety of other options.

Once you’ve made all key decisions, your suit is cut and constructed. The process typically takes four to six weeks. After that, it’s time to try on your suit. Your first fitting isn’t likely to be perfect—it usually requires two to three fittings and adjustments to hone your pattern into your ideal fit.

With numerous customization options available like premium linings, real horn buttons, and contrast stitching and numerous customization options, we, at Alton Lane, take pride in helping you personalize each garment to match your style and personality. The creation of your finished, bespoke look is characterized as high-end because it accommodates your desire to choose from an unlimited selection of fabrics and other details in order to deliver a suit created with highly skilled craftsmanship in the name of precision.

We invest in our customers’ path to finding their perfect fit by using digital and hand measurements to create custom patterns. We assure you that your selection of fabric is based on your preferences and backed by the 3D body scanning technology.

Not only are your physical measurements accounted for, but explicit details around your particular stature or physical posture are documented and considered as part of your specially-made bespoke experience. With the higher price tag also come longer lead time, so don’t go bespoke if you need a suit next week.

The collaborative, bespoke process starts with a chat or on-site visit so that your outfitter of choice may begin to understand your preferences. Here, at Alton Lane, we design revolutionary experiences for newcomers and repeat customers who seek exceptional service that leads to the well-deserved purchase of the perfect suit. We invite you to get comfortable as you embark on the bespoke journey by visiting any of our showrooms.

Your Menswear Style

Whether you decide on a readily available off-the-rack, a uniquely personalized made-to-measure, or an exquisitely precise bespoke, your suit-buying journey comes with decisions around fabrics, fit, and other details that allow you to discover and embrace your menswear style. From suiting fabrics to fabric patterns and detailing options like pockets and vents, there are a lot of different personalization options available to you as you shape your first suit into the perfect fit. Read Part 2 of Alton Lane’s guide to buying your first suit to learn more.